NUTRITION
WHPG = Water, Hay, Pellets and Greens!
Nutrition is the first and most important aspect of your bunny's care. If you get this part right you will be doing a very good thing for your rabbit and for yourself, and your rabbit will have a chance at a long and full and healthy life!
WATER...
Is essential all day every day. Make sure your rabbit has access to water from a bowl...(not only a sipping bottle) 24 hrs a day and make sure the water is always clean...no hay, hair or dirt in it!
SIPPING NBOTTLES ARE FRUSTRATING FOR BUNNIES WHEN THEY ARE REALLY THIRSTY AND WANT TO DRINK FAST...SUCKING OUT OF THEM IS SLOW AND TAKES LONG. IT IS GREAT FOR YOUR BUNNY TO KNOW HOW TO USE ONE, IN CASE YOU TRAVEL WITH THEM, BUT WHEN AT HOME, GIVE THEM A NICE BIG HEAVY CROCK FOR COOL WATER!
WATER...
Is essential all day every day. Make sure your rabbit has access to water from a bowl...(not only a sipping bottle) 24 hrs a day and make sure the water is always clean...no hay, hair or dirt in it!
SIPPING NBOTTLES ARE FRUSTRATING FOR BUNNIES WHEN THEY ARE REALLY THIRSTY AND WANT TO DRINK FAST...SUCKING OUT OF THEM IS SLOW AND TAKES LONG. IT IS GREAT FOR YOUR BUNNY TO KNOW HOW TO USE ONE, IN CASE YOU TRAVEL WITH THEM, BUT WHEN AT HOME, GIVE THEM A NICE BIG HEAVY CROCK FOR COOL WATER!
HAY
The most important part of a rabbit's diet is hay. They cannot eat too much hay! Some people think that feeding just pellets is okay for a rabbit, but it isn't. Rabbits desperately need fiber and other things that pellets do not provide. Hay can and should be 75%-90% of your rabbit's diet. If you get a rabbit one year old or younger, they should eat Alfalfa hay. If your rabbit is older than one year, they should get Timothy or Oat hay. Alfalfa hay would make older rabbits gain too much weight, and can give them tummy aches because it is too rich. There are a number of hays on the market these days and many are wonderful. Some rabbits like one more than another and it is okay to try different ones, to see which is their favorite. Just be sure to find at least one they will eat because it is essential for good rabbit health! The more variety of hays they eat, the wider variety of nutrients they will get. Just like when we eat a wide variety of vegetables, we get better nutrients than if we only ate peas!
I gave mine only Oat hay for several years. Now I mix together Oat and Timothy. On occasion I will throw in some Orchard or Meadow grass, or Brome or Bermuda or Mountain. You can order hay online, or get it at a Horse Feed store, a Petco, Petsmart or local small pet store. However, it is always more expensive at the pet stores. Also, if you order online, you get it delivered to your door, but you have to pay postage. (Small Pet Select and Sierra Hay are excellent) A small bag of hay will run 5 dollars and doesn't last long. You can do far better cost-wise by going to a local bunny rescue or barn that also sells hay. See my links for rescues that sell hay in the greater LA area. I get a whole bale (that's a huge amount) of beautiful Oat or Timothy for under $25 dollars and it lasts all month. I have many bunnies! :)
You do have to keep it dry and away from rodents. I keep mine in my garage in the bags they come in, with the top open so the hay can breathe, but I don't have a rodent issue. There are several ways to store it, but it should be able to breathe. You never want to let it get moist or soggy because it will mold and make your bunny sick. Some people I know put it in a large plastic container and cut air-holes into the lid. IKEA used to have huge rugged plastic bags for dog food, that has actual netting areas on the sides for breathing and a zipper top closure. These bags are blue and white with a dog bone pictured on them, and sell for under $5. They have handles also. (Call to make sure they are still in stock) If you get those, just make sure they don't sit on anything moist, because the moisture can get in through the bottom and the netting on the sides. I divide my bale of hay into 2 or more IKEA bags, and that way I can just carry them around the house from one rabbit pen to another to add hay to my litter boxes. I can also leave them in closets throughout the house and always have hay close by since I have bunnies downstairs and upstairs! :)
If you ever see bugs or mold in your hay, return it to where you got it and tell them so they can warn others who might have bought from that batch, or if that is no longer possible, throw it away. If your bunny eats it and gets sick, your vet bills will be a lot more than it would be to just buy another bag or bale of hay!
I gave mine only Oat hay for several years. Now I mix together Oat and Timothy. On occasion I will throw in some Orchard or Meadow grass, or Brome or Bermuda or Mountain. You can order hay online, or get it at a Horse Feed store, a Petco, Petsmart or local small pet store. However, it is always more expensive at the pet stores. Also, if you order online, you get it delivered to your door, but you have to pay postage. (Small Pet Select and Sierra Hay are excellent) A small bag of hay will run 5 dollars and doesn't last long. You can do far better cost-wise by going to a local bunny rescue or barn that also sells hay. See my links for rescues that sell hay in the greater LA area. I get a whole bale (that's a huge amount) of beautiful Oat or Timothy for under $25 dollars and it lasts all month. I have many bunnies! :)
You do have to keep it dry and away from rodents. I keep mine in my garage in the bags they come in, with the top open so the hay can breathe, but I don't have a rodent issue. There are several ways to store it, but it should be able to breathe. You never want to let it get moist or soggy because it will mold and make your bunny sick. Some people I know put it in a large plastic container and cut air-holes into the lid. IKEA used to have huge rugged plastic bags for dog food, that has actual netting areas on the sides for breathing and a zipper top closure. These bags are blue and white with a dog bone pictured on them, and sell for under $5. They have handles also. (Call to make sure they are still in stock) If you get those, just make sure they don't sit on anything moist, because the moisture can get in through the bottom and the netting on the sides. I divide my bale of hay into 2 or more IKEA bags, and that way I can just carry them around the house from one rabbit pen to another to add hay to my litter boxes. I can also leave them in closets throughout the house and always have hay close by since I have bunnies downstairs and upstairs! :)
If you ever see bugs or mold in your hay, return it to where you got it and tell them so they can warn others who might have bought from that batch, or if that is no longer possible, throw it away. If your bunny eats it and gets sick, your vet bills will be a lot more than it would be to just buy another bag or bale of hay!
PELLETS
The second food your rabbits should eat are pellets. There is some controversy about this out there, but pellets do have some nutrition that cannot be gotten from hay. Some people say there is no need to feed pellets at all. I don't disagree that that might be okay, but I feel safer giving mine limited pellets, and they love them. I actually use pellets as a "treat" food for my buns sometimes, because they love them so much. I'll set aside a few from their dinner plate and use them at another time in the day to try and teach them tricks (check out Clicker-Training online). It is important to buy good quality pellets as there are also a lot of bad quality pellets available. The most important thing to look for in the pellets is the fiber content, and the higher it is the better. You can compare packages to see that some are higher than others.
Oxbow and Sherwood pellets are some of the best brands and although they are a little more expensive, they are so much healthier! You can get Alfalfa and Timothy pellets from Oxbow. Some of the packages have a resealable top. Alfalfa is considered "Young or Baby" rabbit food and Timothy pellets are considered "Mature or Adult" rabbit food.
What that means is that for bunnies under 8 months, the alfalfa is important because it has a higher fat content, and babies and lactating mother rabbits need that extra fat.
Sherwood food is the very best, in that it provides help for the problems bunnies get all the time (GI stasis and others). they have supplements that are wonderful if your bunny has specific issues, like GI Stasis, or Urinary tract issues or joint problems from arthritis or old age. ) You can check out all their products at "SherwoodPetHealth". Their GREAT vet techs are always on hand to answer your questions as well!
For bunnies over 8 months, they can be slowly switched to Timothy which has less fat and is healthier at that point. Overweight bunnies can develop all kinds of problems, including liver issues.
Never, never buy pellets with anything else mixed into them, (eg: corn, seeds etc.) Just plain brown pellets are what you want. I have gone from pet store to pet store to ask the owners why they buy/sell those fancier looking pellets, because they are so bad for buns, and their answer has always been that the companies make them buy those along with the healthier stuff. I believe another reason is that breeders use it. Especially breeders who breed bunnies for meat. They need those carbs to fatten up their bunnies, but it is not good for their health!
My bunnies all get about 1/8 of a cup of pellets a day depending on their weight. I give them in the evening as dinner, but it doesn't really matter when. My buns all weigh in the range of 5 -10 pounds. If your bun is overweight, less pellets might help them lose weight. If they aren't getting enough exercise, a chance to run around for a few hours a day in an open place would also help and is very important for them!
Oxbow and Sherwood pellets are some of the best brands and although they are a little more expensive, they are so much healthier! You can get Alfalfa and Timothy pellets from Oxbow. Some of the packages have a resealable top. Alfalfa is considered "Young or Baby" rabbit food and Timothy pellets are considered "Mature or Adult" rabbit food.
What that means is that for bunnies under 8 months, the alfalfa is important because it has a higher fat content, and babies and lactating mother rabbits need that extra fat.
Sherwood food is the very best, in that it provides help for the problems bunnies get all the time (GI stasis and others). they have supplements that are wonderful if your bunny has specific issues, like GI Stasis, or Urinary tract issues or joint problems from arthritis or old age. ) You can check out all their products at "SherwoodPetHealth". Their GREAT vet techs are always on hand to answer your questions as well!
For bunnies over 8 months, they can be slowly switched to Timothy which has less fat and is healthier at that point. Overweight bunnies can develop all kinds of problems, including liver issues.
Never, never buy pellets with anything else mixed into them, (eg: corn, seeds etc.) Just plain brown pellets are what you want. I have gone from pet store to pet store to ask the owners why they buy/sell those fancier looking pellets, because they are so bad for buns, and their answer has always been that the companies make them buy those along with the healthier stuff. I believe another reason is that breeders use it. Especially breeders who breed bunnies for meat. They need those carbs to fatten up their bunnies, but it is not good for their health!
My bunnies all get about 1/8 of a cup of pellets a day depending on their weight. I give them in the evening as dinner, but it doesn't really matter when. My buns all weigh in the range of 5 -10 pounds. If your bun is overweight, less pellets might help them lose weight. If they aren't getting enough exercise, a chance to run around for a few hours a day in an open place would also help and is very important for them!
GREENS
Greens are healthy and good for your bun. It is great for them to get a salad once or twice a day. A handful of greens is a great treat and the buns always look forward to the time of day when I bring out the greens!
There are a lot of different greens for your bun, and some are better than others. Some green things are no-no's as well. For example, avocado! Never give your bun any avocado.
Some greens have higher calcium content than others, and some buns don't do well with too much calcium. It depends on your bun. I don't know all the statistics on every green, but my buns get a mixture of a few of the following greens, whatever is freshest that week.
Every now and then I mix in some kale or broccoli or spinach leaves, but these are higher in calcium so I only add one of them every now and then. Also see the House Rabbit Society website (rabbit.org) for lists of greens.
If all you give your buns is lots and lots of hay, water, a very small amount of healthy pellets and a handful of greens once a day..... that is best! They will be perfectly happy with that diet.
A desert for a bunny should be about the size of the tip of your thumb. Remember their tummies are tiny and
ONE BLUEBERRY is PLENTY FOR A BUNNY.......it's like you having an ice cream sundae!
If you give them a dozen blueberries its like you eating a quart of ice cream!
There are some treats and special things (organic dried herbs, fresh herbs, and tiny tiny pieces of fruit like one blueberry) for your buns out there, but do not buy commercial bun treats that are sold in pet stores. Honestly, they are so bad for your bun. And they really don't need them. There are a very few treats that are okay. Most of them have to be mail-ordered. I buy these special treats for my buns for holidays, birthdays and some special moments, but do not make treats a regular every day thing. You will be glad you didn't. And your buns will be healthier!
There are a lot of different greens for your bun, and some are better than others. Some green things are no-no's as well. For example, avocado! Never give your bun any avocado.
Some greens have higher calcium content than others, and some buns don't do well with too much calcium. It depends on your bun. I don't know all the statistics on every green, but my buns get a mixture of a few of the following greens, whatever is freshest that week.
- Romaine lettuce
- Green/Red leaf lettuce
- Dandelion greens
- Cilantro
- Baby Bok Choy
- Dill
- Mint
- Flat leaf or Italian parsely
- Green, red or yellow pepper, cut in thin strip
- Fennel, mostly the green ends and some stem and bottom, cut small
- Carrot tops....NOT carrots
Every now and then I mix in some kale or broccoli or spinach leaves, but these are higher in calcium so I only add one of them every now and then. Also see the House Rabbit Society website (rabbit.org) for lists of greens.
If all you give your buns is lots and lots of hay, water, a very small amount of healthy pellets and a handful of greens once a day..... that is best! They will be perfectly happy with that diet.
A desert for a bunny should be about the size of the tip of your thumb. Remember their tummies are tiny and
ONE BLUEBERRY is PLENTY FOR A BUNNY.......it's like you having an ice cream sundae!
If you give them a dozen blueberries its like you eating a quart of ice cream!
There are some treats and special things (organic dried herbs, fresh herbs, and tiny tiny pieces of fruit like one blueberry) for your buns out there, but do not buy commercial bun treats that are sold in pet stores. Honestly, they are so bad for your bun. And they really don't need them. There are a very few treats that are okay. Most of them have to be mail-ordered. I buy these special treats for my buns for holidays, birthdays and some special moments, but do not make treats a regular every day thing. You will be glad you didn't. And your buns will be healthier!
