How to Groom Your Bunny
Grooming your bunny is one of the most important parts of keeping them healthy and happy. Bunnies need regular grooming; not only does it help strengthen the bond between you and your pet, but it is especially crucial during a moult, when rabbits shed their old coat and grow a new one. During this time, large amounts of loose fur can come out, and because rabbits groom themselves constantly, they can easily swallow that fur. Since rabbits cannot vomit, regular brushing and grooming help prevent dangerous hair blockages in their digestive system. Learning how to groom your bunny properly is one of the best ways you can care for them while also building trust and connection with your bun.
To help you get started, I’ve included two short videos of me grooming bunnies. Watching the process can make it much easier to understand how to handle your bunny gently and confidently. I hope these demonstrations give you the confidence to begin grooming your own bun!
If you're the DIY type, I recommend the Neakasa Neobot grooming vacuum - it's perfect for keeping your bunny brushed and comfortable between sessions, and the cool-air de-shedding tool feels like a gentle bunny massage! (affiliate product)
To help you get started, I’ve included two short videos of me grooming bunnies. Watching the process can make it much easier to understand how to handle your bunny gently and confidently. I hope these demonstrations give you the confidence to begin grooming your own bun!
If you're the DIY type, I recommend the Neakasa Neobot grooming vacuum - it's perfect for keeping your bunny brushed and comfortable between sessions, and the cool-air de-shedding tool feels like a gentle bunny massage! (affiliate product)
Easy Grooming for Short-Hair Bunnies
How to Groom an Angora Bunny
Table of Contents
Click on any title below to jump directly to the section you’d like to explore.
Moult
A moult is the period during which your bunny sheds its entire winter or summer coat and grows a new one. For example, a winter coat begins to moult once your bunny senses the end of winter, and a summer coat follows once summer is over. In regions with distinct seasons, this typically happens twice a year. However, in warmer climates, bunnies may moult more frequently and therefore require additional grooming support.
What to Expect During Moulting
During a moult, loose fur comes off easily and may even create some bald spots when brushed or combed. Rest assured, this is entirely normal, and the fur will grow back. Bunny fur grows in a patchy pattern and may cause problems, a trait that likely served as camouflage in the wild. Because bunnies are exceptionally clean animals that groom themselves daily, the loose fur can be swallowed.
Since bunnies do not have a vomit reflex, ingested fur passes through their digestive system, where it may become lodged and form a blockage. These blockages can be life-threatening within days, and surgery to remove them is often costly.
If your bunny ever stops eating, consider it a possible sign of a blockage or G.I. stasis and contact your veterinarian immediately. If a vet appointment isn’t immediately available, you can use "appetite restore" to encourage eating, but it is critical to follow up with professional care if there is no improvement within 12–24 hours.
Make sure to keep a supply of "appetite restore" on hand. (Currently, it is available exclusively from Sherwoodpethealth.com. Kanan Vet in Oak Park sometimes stocks it as well; you may call Dr. Ravenscroft at 818-532-7434 to check availability.)
What to Expect During Moulting
During a moult, loose fur comes off easily and may even create some bald spots when brushed or combed. Rest assured, this is entirely normal, and the fur will grow back. Bunny fur grows in a patchy pattern and may cause problems, a trait that likely served as camouflage in the wild. Because bunnies are exceptionally clean animals that groom themselves daily, the loose fur can be swallowed.
Since bunnies do not have a vomit reflex, ingested fur passes through their digestive system, where it may become lodged and form a blockage. These blockages can be life-threatening within days, and surgery to remove them is often costly.
If your bunny ever stops eating, consider it a possible sign of a blockage or G.I. stasis and contact your veterinarian immediately. If a vet appointment isn’t immediately available, you can use "appetite restore" to encourage eating, but it is critical to follow up with professional care if there is no improvement within 12–24 hours.
Make sure to keep a supply of "appetite restore" on hand. (Currently, it is available exclusively from Sherwoodpethealth.com. Kanan Vet in Oak Park sometimes stocks it as well; you may call Dr. Ravenscroft at 818-532-7434 to check availability.)
Grooming = Lifesaving Care
In the past, bunnies often lived only three to six years, succumbing to these blockages without owners understanding the true cause. Today, thanks to improved care and a better understanding of their needs, bunnies can live eight to 14 years and some have even reached 18 years. This is why proper grooming is essential to their long-term health. If you would like to learn how to groom your bunny, contact me here.
You can groom your bunny. Don’t be intimidated!
Remember, bunnies may try to assert themselves as the “alpha,” but you are much larger. It is essential to be both firm and loving. Initially, they might bite or scratch, but they are not out to harm you. If you’re worried about scratches, consider wearing an old sweatshirt during grooming sessions.
A proper, firm hold is key: holding your bunny securely helps prevent them from squirming. A loose grip might imply that you might drop them, which could be dangerous. Learn the correct way to handle your bunny, never pick them up by the ears or scruff. Once you master grooming your own bunny, you might even teach others, there is a real need for knowledgeable groomers in our community.
There are a few professional bunny groomers, and we need more skilled individuals in this field. In the Los Angeles area, for example, you’ll find a range of grooming services: from essential grooming to full one- or two-hour sessions. Always ask about what is included in the service and choose based on your bunny’s needs. Check the list of my recommended bunny groomers in the Los Angeles Area.
You can groom your bunny. Don’t be intimidated!
Remember, bunnies may try to assert themselves as the “alpha,” but you are much larger. It is essential to be both firm and loving. Initially, they might bite or scratch, but they are not out to harm you. If you’re worried about scratches, consider wearing an old sweatshirt during grooming sessions.
A proper, firm hold is key: holding your bunny securely helps prevent them from squirming. A loose grip might imply that you might drop them, which could be dangerous. Learn the correct way to handle your bunny, never pick them up by the ears or scruff. Once you master grooming your own bunny, you might even teach others, there is a real need for knowledgeable groomers in our community.
There are a few professional bunny groomers, and we need more skilled individuals in this field. In the Los Angeles area, for example, you’ll find a range of grooming services: from essential grooming to full one- or two-hour sessions. Always ask about what is included in the service and choose based on your bunny’s needs. Check the list of my recommended bunny groomers in the Los Angeles Area.
Shedding
Signs Your Bunny Is Entering a Heavy Moult
It helps to recognize the early signs that your rabbit is starting a heavy shed so you can increase grooming before loose fur becomes a problem.
Common signs include:
Once you see these signs, it’s time to increase grooming to daily brushing until the moult passes. Removing loose fur early helps prevent your bunny from swallowing too much hair during self-grooming.
With a little attention and regular brushing, most rabbits move through their moults comfortably and safely and grooming can become a relaxing bonding time for both of you.
Often, a surprising amount of loose fur can be removed simply by gently pulling it out with your fingers. Work slowly and gently so your rabbit stays comfortable. If you don’t remove the loose fur, your rabbit will likely ingest it during self-grooming.
It is not unusual to see small bald patches during a heavy shed, especially if the new coat has already started growing underneath. These areas usually begin filling in again within a week or two. If you notice the skin becoming completely bare while plucking loose fur, slow down and give the coat another day or so before continuing, allowing the new fur to grow in.
Long-Haired Rabbits
For long-haired breeds such as Angoras, bald spots can sometimes appear simply because the coat sheds heavily. In these cases, it is best to comb a little each day rather than removing too much fur at once.
Always groom slowly and gently. When done properly, grooming can feel like a relaxing massage for your rabbit.
Long-haired rabbits are beautiful, but they require much more grooming care than short-haired breeds.
For rabbits such as Angoras and Jersey Woolies, it is often helpful to keep the coat trimmed to about one inch or less. This helps prevent severe matting and reduces the risk of hair ingestion.
These breeds commonly develop mats in certain areas, including:
Keeping the fur in these areas short and well-maintained will make grooming easier and keep your bunny far more comfortable.
Use extreme caution when using scissors around your bunny. The groin area can be especially tricky—it’s very easy to lose sight of where the tail is, and you must be extra careful around the genitals (particularly with males, where the penis can extend unexpectedly).
Also, take great care around the head, as it’s surprisingly easy to accidentally catch and cut an ear.
If you feel unsure about any of these grooming techniques, don’t hesitate to ask for help. A rabbit-savvy veterinarian, experienced groomer, or knowledgeable rabbit caretaker can show you how to safely groom your bunny and keep their coat healthy.
Mats
Rabbit skin is very delicate and can tear easily, so mats should never be cut off with scissors. It is very easy to accidentally cut the skin while trying to remove a mat.
Instead of using sharp scissors, try a mat splitter or mat rake to gently work through and separate tangled fur. In some cases, even your fingernails can help loosen a mat—and a good pair of tweezers can be surprisingly effective for more delicate areas. Rabbit fur is very fine and usually requires finer grooming tools than those used for cats or dogs.
If you accidentally nick your rabbit’s skin and the cut is small or superficial, you can apply a small amount of plain Neosporin to help prevent infection.
Important: Do not use Neosporin that contains added pain relief, as these ingredients are not safe for rabbits.
When in doubt, or if the cut is more than minor, it is always best to contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian.
It helps to recognize the early signs that your rabbit is starting a heavy shed so you can increase grooming before loose fur becomes a problem.
Common signs include:
- Loose fur coming off when you pet your bunny
- Hair collecting around their pen or favorite resting spots
- Small tufts of fur sticking out from the coat
- Uneven or patchy-looking fur
- A “line” or ridge in the coat where the old fur is separating from the new coat
- Extra grooming by your rabbit
Once you see these signs, it’s time to increase grooming to daily brushing until the moult passes. Removing loose fur early helps prevent your bunny from swallowing too much hair during self-grooming.
With a little attention and regular brushing, most rabbits move through their moults comfortably and safely and grooming can become a relaxing bonding time for both of you.
Often, a surprising amount of loose fur can be removed simply by gently pulling it out with your fingers. Work slowly and gently so your rabbit stays comfortable. If you don’t remove the loose fur, your rabbit will likely ingest it during self-grooming.
It is not unusual to see small bald patches during a heavy shed, especially if the new coat has already started growing underneath. These areas usually begin filling in again within a week or two. If you notice the skin becoming completely bare while plucking loose fur, slow down and give the coat another day or so before continuing, allowing the new fur to grow in.
Long-Haired Rabbits
For long-haired breeds such as Angoras, bald spots can sometimes appear simply because the coat sheds heavily. In these cases, it is best to comb a little each day rather than removing too much fur at once.
Always groom slowly and gently. When done properly, grooming can feel like a relaxing massage for your rabbit.
Long-haired rabbits are beautiful, but they require much more grooming care than short-haired breeds.
For rabbits such as Angoras and Jersey Woolies, it is often helpful to keep the coat trimmed to about one inch or less. This helps prevent severe matting and reduces the risk of hair ingestion.
These breeds commonly develop mats in certain areas, including:
- Under the front legs (armpits)
- Under the chin
- Around the groin area
Keeping the fur in these areas short and well-maintained will make grooming easier and keep your bunny far more comfortable.
Use extreme caution when using scissors around your bunny. The groin area can be especially tricky—it’s very easy to lose sight of where the tail is, and you must be extra careful around the genitals (particularly with males, where the penis can extend unexpectedly).
Also, take great care around the head, as it’s surprisingly easy to accidentally catch and cut an ear.
If you feel unsure about any of these grooming techniques, don’t hesitate to ask for help. A rabbit-savvy veterinarian, experienced groomer, or knowledgeable rabbit caretaker can show you how to safely groom your bunny and keep their coat healthy.
Mats
Rabbit skin is very delicate and can tear easily, so mats should never be cut off with scissors. It is very easy to accidentally cut the skin while trying to remove a mat.
Instead of using sharp scissors, try a mat splitter or mat rake to gently work through and separate tangled fur. In some cases, even your fingernails can help loosen a mat—and a good pair of tweezers can be surprisingly effective for more delicate areas. Rabbit fur is very fine and usually requires finer grooming tools than those used for cats or dogs.
If you accidentally nick your rabbit’s skin and the cut is small or superficial, you can apply a small amount of plain Neosporin to help prevent infection.
Important: Do not use Neosporin that contains added pain relief, as these ingredients are not safe for rabbits.
When in doubt, or if the cut is more than minor, it is always best to contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian.
Fleas and Mites
Rabbits can occasionally suffer from fleas or mites, which may cause itching, dandruff-like flakes, hair loss, or irritation around the ears and skin.
How to Tell if Your Bunny Has Mites
Mites are fairly common in rabbits and can sometimes appear even in well-cared-for indoor bunnies. Fortunately, they are usually easy to treat once identified.
Common signs of mites include:
One common condition caused by mites is often called “walking dandruff.” This occurs when fur mites live on the skin and create visible flakes that can appear to move as the mites shift underneath.
If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s best to consult a rabbit-experienced veterinarian. Treatment is typically simple and very effective once the correct medication is applied.
Early treatment is important, not only to keep your bunny comfortable, but also to prevent the mites from spreading to other rabbits or building up in the environment.
Regular grooming and checking your bunny’s coat during brushing sessions is one of the best ways to catch mite problems early.
Several treatments are considered safe for rabbits when prescribed by a rabbit-savvy veterinarian, but I prefer Revolution (selamectin).
Revolution is preferred because it not only treats fleas but is also effective against several types of mites. These mites can cause conditions such as ear mites (ear canker), mange, and “walking dandruff,” which is commonly caused by fur mites in the genus Cheyletiella.
Important Safety Notes
It is also important to thoroughly clean your rabbit’s enclosure, bedding, and exercise areas after treatment. Fur and dander in the environment can contain mite eggs, which may lead to reinfestation.
A flea comb is a safe, non-toxic tool that can help remove fleas and debris from your rabbit’s coat. While it takes patience, many rabbits enjoy the attention, and it can be a helpful supplement to your main flea-control program.
Products That Should NOT Be Used on Rabbits
Some flea treatments that are safe for dogs and cats can be dangerous or even fatal for rabbits.
Never use:
Always consult a rabbit-experienced veterinarian before using any parasite treatment on your bunny.
How to Tell if Your Bunny Has Mites
Mites are fairly common in rabbits and can sometimes appear even in well-cared-for indoor bunnies. Fortunately, they are usually easy to treat once identified.
Common signs of mites include:
- White flakes or dandruff in the fur
- Hair loss or thinning patches
- Frequent scratching or biting at the skin
- Crusts or scabs, especially around the ears
- Thick debris inside the ears (a sign of ear mites)
- Restlessness or irritation
One common condition caused by mites is often called “walking dandruff.” This occurs when fur mites live on the skin and create visible flakes that can appear to move as the mites shift underneath.
If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s best to consult a rabbit-experienced veterinarian. Treatment is typically simple and very effective once the correct medication is applied.
Early treatment is important, not only to keep your bunny comfortable, but also to prevent the mites from spreading to other rabbits or building up in the environment.
Regular grooming and checking your bunny’s coat during brushing sessions is one of the best ways to catch mite problems early.
Several treatments are considered safe for rabbits when prescribed by a rabbit-savvy veterinarian, but I prefer Revolution (selamectin).
Revolution is preferred because it not only treats fleas but is also effective against several types of mites. These mites can cause conditions such as ear mites (ear canker), mange, and “walking dandruff,” which is commonly caused by fur mites in the genus Cheyletiella.
Important Safety Notes
- Apply the medication to the back of the neck, where your rabbit cannot groom it off.
- If you have bonded rabbits, separate them for 2–3 hours after treatment so their partner does not lick the medication. These medications are toxic if ingested.
It is also important to thoroughly clean your rabbit’s enclosure, bedding, and exercise areas after treatment. Fur and dander in the environment can contain mite eggs, which may lead to reinfestation.
A flea comb is a safe, non-toxic tool that can help remove fleas and debris from your rabbit’s coat. While it takes patience, many rabbits enjoy the attention, and it can be a helpful supplement to your main flea-control program.
Products That Should NOT Be Used on Rabbits
Some flea treatments that are safe for dogs and cats can be dangerous or even fatal for rabbits.
Never use:
- Frontline (fipronil) — This product has been linked to neurological damage and death in rabbits. The manufacturer has placed a warning on the label stating it should never be used on rabbits.
- Flea powders — Even products labeled as safe for cats or marketed as “rabbit safe” are not recommended.
- Flea shampoos — These are also not recommended for rabbits, even if they are considered safe for cats or kittens.
Always consult a rabbit-experienced veterinarian before using any parasite treatment on your bunny.
Baths
In general, bathing rabbits is strongly discouraged. The stress of being bathed can cause serious health problems and, in some cases, has even been linked to the death of a rabbit.
For this reason, flea baths or flea dips are not recommended for rabbits.
Environmental flea treatments such as sprays or “bug bombs” should also be avoided, as they may leave harmful residues that a rabbit can ingest while grooming.
Safer environmental options may include borax or food-grade diatomaceous earth, lightly worked into carpets or areas where fleas may lay eggs.
Why Rabbits Should Not Be Bathed
Although an occasional rabbit may tolerate water, the vast majority of rabbits dislike getting wet, much like their wild ancestors. Even an occasional bath can be very stressful.
Never bathe a sick rabbit unless your veterinarian specifically advises it (for example, to help reduce a fever). Even rabbits that appear healthy may have underlying health issues, and the stress of a bath can trigger shock or other complications.
If a rabbit already has a heavy flea infestation, it may already be weakened, and bathing could make the situation worse.
Safer Cleaning Alternatives
Instead of bathing your rabbit, try spot cleaning.
A simple and effective method is to:
This helps absorb oils and loosen dirt so it can be removed without soaking the rabbit.
Important: Do not use talcum powder, as it is considered carcinogenic.
If Your Rabbit Gets Wet
A rabbit that becomes wet can quickly become hypothermic. If your rabbit gets wet for any reason, it is important to dry them thoroughly.
Use a blow dryer on a low or warm setting only, and dry the coat completely—including the undercoat—until the fur is fluffy again.
Rabbit skin is delicate and rabbits are sensitive to heat, so:
Normal Rabbit Temperature
A healthy rabbit’s normal body temperature ranges from 101°F to 103°F.
Because rabbits are sensitive to both heat and cold, maintaining a stable body temperature is very important for their health.
When a Bunny May Need a "Butt Bath"
Although full baths are not recommended, there are rare situations when a rabbit may need a partial cleaning, often called a "butt bath." This is usually necessary if a rabbit has diarrhea, severe urine scald, or feces stuck to the fur around the tail area.
In these cases, leaving the area dirty can lead to skin infections or flystrike, so gentle cleaning may be necessary.
How to Do a Safe Butt Bath
Drying Is Very Important
After cleaning, dry your rabbit completely.
When to Call a Vet
A butt bath treats the symptom, not the cause. If your rabbit has diarrhea, persistent messiness, or urine scald, it is important to contact a rabbit-experienced veterinarian to determine the underlying problem.
Regular grooming and keeping the fur around the rear area trimmed can help prevent these situations from occurring.
For this reason, flea baths or flea dips are not recommended for rabbits.
Environmental flea treatments such as sprays or “bug bombs” should also be avoided, as they may leave harmful residues that a rabbit can ingest while grooming.
Safer environmental options may include borax or food-grade diatomaceous earth, lightly worked into carpets or areas where fleas may lay eggs.
Why Rabbits Should Not Be Bathed
Although an occasional rabbit may tolerate water, the vast majority of rabbits dislike getting wet, much like their wild ancestors. Even an occasional bath can be very stressful.
Never bathe a sick rabbit unless your veterinarian specifically advises it (for example, to help reduce a fever). Even rabbits that appear healthy may have underlying health issues, and the stress of a bath can trigger shock or other complications.
If a rabbit already has a heavy flea infestation, it may already be weakened, and bathing could make the situation worse.
Safer Cleaning Alternatives
Instead of bathing your rabbit, try spot cleaning.
A simple and effective method is to:
- Sprinkle baby cornstarch on the dirty area
- Gently work it into the fur
- Comb the area carefully with a fine flea comb
This helps absorb oils and loosen dirt so it can be removed without soaking the rabbit.
Important: Do not use talcum powder, as it is considered carcinogenic.
If Your Rabbit Gets Wet
A rabbit that becomes wet can quickly become hypothermic. If your rabbit gets wet for any reason, it is important to dry them thoroughly.
Use a blow dryer on a low or warm setting only, and dry the coat completely—including the undercoat—until the fur is fluffy again.
Rabbit skin is delicate and rabbits are sensitive to heat, so:
- Never use a hot setting
- Continuously check the air temperature by placing your hand in the airflow
- Keep the dryer moving and avoid overheating one area
Normal Rabbit Temperature
A healthy rabbit’s normal body temperature ranges from 101°F to 103°F.
Because rabbits are sensitive to both heat and cold, maintaining a stable body temperature is very important for their health.
When a Bunny May Need a "Butt Bath"
Although full baths are not recommended, there are rare situations when a rabbit may need a partial cleaning, often called a "butt bath." This is usually necessary if a rabbit has diarrhea, severe urine scald, or feces stuck to the fur around the tail area.
In these cases, leaving the area dirty can lead to skin infections or flystrike, so gentle cleaning may be necessary.
How to Do a Safe Butt Bath
- Only clean the soiled area, not the entire rabbit.
- Fill a small basin or sink with a few inches of warm (not hot) water.
- Hold your rabbit firmly and securely, supporting their body.
- Place only the rear end in the water to loosen the debris.
- Gently work the debris free with your fingers.
- If needed, use a very small amount of mild, fragrance-free soap.
- Rinse the area thoroughly so no soap remains.
Drying Is Very Important
After cleaning, dry your rabbit completely.
- Use a soft towel first.
- Then use a blow dryer on the lowest warm setting.
- Continue drying until the fur and undercoat are fully dry and fluffy.
- Always test the air temperature with your hand and keep the dryer moving so the skin does not overheat.
When to Call a Vet
A butt bath treats the symptom, not the cause. If your rabbit has diarrhea, persistent messiness, or urine scald, it is important to contact a rabbit-experienced veterinarian to determine the underlying problem.
Regular grooming and keeping the fur around the rear area trimmed can help prevent these situations from occurring.
Skin Problems
Scratchy, flaky skin and bald patches are often signs of mites, or more rarely, an allergic reaction to fleas. In many cases, the treatments described in the Fleas section will successfully resolve these problems.
However, if you notice open sores, significant hair loss, or ongoing skin inflammation, it is important to consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. Skin conditions that persist or worsen should always be professionally evaluated to ensure your bunny receives the proper treatment.
There’s an excellent resource on rabbit skin conditions, Rabbit Skin Diseases by Esther van Praag. It’s sometimes available on Amazon.
However, if you notice open sores, significant hair loss, or ongoing skin inflammation, it is important to consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. Skin conditions that persist or worsen should always be professionally evaluated to ensure your bunny receives the proper treatment.
There’s an excellent resource on rabbit skin conditions, Rabbit Skin Diseases by Esther van Praag. It’s sometimes available on Amazon.
Scent Glands
Rabbits have scent glands in two places: under their chin and around the anus. The chin glands are what rabbits use to mark objects (and sometimes people!) when they “chin” things.
Rabbits have small scent glands (pockets) on either side of their genitals that produce a waxy substance. This wax carries a musky scent and is used in scent-marking—rabbits can spread it along with their urine to claim areas as their own.
After a rabbit is spayed or neutered, this marking behavior typically decreases or stops due to the drop in hormones. However, the wax can still build up in the gland pockets since it’s no longer being naturally dispersed.
It’s important to gently check and clean these glands every 8–10 weeks. If left too long, the wax can harden and become uncomfortable for your rabbit.
Cleaning these glands is simple.
The material is similar to earwax in humans, and it usually comes away easily. The whole process only takes a moment and can make your bunny much more comfortable.
As always, work slowly and gently, and your rabbit will tolerate the cleaning just fine.
Rabbits have small scent glands (pockets) on either side of their genitals that produce a waxy substance. This wax carries a musky scent and is used in scent-marking—rabbits can spread it along with their urine to claim areas as their own.
After a rabbit is spayed or neutered, this marking behavior typically decreases or stops due to the drop in hormones. However, the wax can still build up in the gland pockets since it’s no longer being naturally dispersed.
It’s important to gently check and clean these glands every 8–10 weeks. If left too long, the wax can harden and become uncomfortable for your rabbit.
Cleaning these glands is simple.
- Dip a Q-tip in a little warm water or mineral oil
- Hold your rabbit securely so you can gently access the area around the genitals.
- Locate the two small slits on either side of the genitals.
- Carefully use the Q-tip to remove any yellow, brown, or dark waxy buildup.
The material is similar to earwax in humans, and it usually comes away easily. The whole process only takes a moment and can make your bunny much more comfortable.
As always, work slowly and gently, and your rabbit will tolerate the cleaning just fine.
Feet Care
House rabbits who live primarily indoors, especially on carpeting or smooth flooring like tile or linoleum, need to have their toenails trimmed regularly, just like dogs and cats. Keeping nails short helps prevent discomfort, injury, and potential infection.
Declawing is never an option for rabbits (or any animal). It is painful, unnecessary, and should not be done.
If your bunny tends to dig or scratch excessively, try providing a designated digging area, such as a large box filled with hay or straw. This allows them to express their natural behavior in a safe and appropriate way.
Protecting Your Bunny’s Feet
Rabbits rely on the fur on the bottoms of their feet for cushioning. If this fur becomes worn down, it can expose the skin and lead to irritation, calluses, or sores (often called sore hocks).
To help prevent this:
If the skin becomes exposed and is repeatedly in contact with moisture, especially urine, it can quickly become inflamed or infected.
Regularly check your rabbit’s feet and ensure that rugs, bedding, and litter boxes are kept clean and dry to protect their sensitive skin.
Early Signs of Sore Hocks (Watch Closely)
Catching sore hocks early can prevent pain and serious infection. Check your bunny’s feet regularly for these warning signs:
More Serious Signs (Act Quickly)
What to Do If you notice early signs:
If symptoms progress or you see open sores, contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian right away.
Regular checks, just a quick look during grooming, can make a huge difference in keeping your bunny comfortable and healthy.
Declawing is never an option for rabbits (or any animal). It is painful, unnecessary, and should not be done.
If your bunny tends to dig or scratch excessively, try providing a designated digging area, such as a large box filled with hay or straw. This allows them to express their natural behavior in a safe and appropriate way.
Protecting Your Bunny’s Feet
Rabbits rely on the fur on the bottoms of their feet for cushioning. If this fur becomes worn down, it can expose the skin and lead to irritation, calluses, or sores (often called sore hocks).
To help prevent this:
- Provide soft, dry resting surfaces such as rugs or mats
- Avoid prolonged time on hard or slippery flooring
- Keep living areas clean and dry
- Consider getting your bunny small “bunny boots” or socks—these can often be found on platforms like Etsy. While they can be a bit pricey, they can be incredibly helpful in certain situations (like protecting sore hocks or providing traction on slippery floors). Always make sure they fit properly—never too tight or restrictive—and only purchase from a reputable, bunny-savvy seller who understands proper fit and safety.
If the skin becomes exposed and is repeatedly in contact with moisture, especially urine, it can quickly become inflamed or infected.
Regularly check your rabbit’s feet and ensure that rugs, bedding, and litter boxes are kept clean and dry to protect their sensitive skin.
Early Signs of Sore Hocks (Watch Closely)
Catching sore hocks early can prevent pain and serious infection. Check your bunny’s feet regularly for these warning signs:
- Thinning fur on the bottoms of the back feet
- Small bald patches beginning to appear
- Pink or slightly red skin (early irritation)
- Dry, flaky, or callused skin
- Yellowish staining from urine exposure
- Your bunny shifting weight frequently or not wanting to rest normally
- Reluctance to hop, jump, or move as usual
More Serious Signs (Act Quickly)
- Open sores or raw skin
- Swelling or warmth in the foot
- Scabs or bleeding
- Signs of pain when touched
What to Do If you notice early signs:
- Provide soft, clean, dry surfaces immediately
- Keep litter areas very clean and dry
- Limit time on hard flooring
If symptoms progress or you see open sores, contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian right away.
Regular checks, just a quick look during grooming, can make a huge difference in keeping your bunny comfortable and healthy.
Nail Trimming
Rabbit nails can grow long and sharp, which can be uncomfortable for both you and your bunny. If nails become too long, they can make it difficult for your rabbit to run and jump comfortably, and may even snag or break, which can be painful.
How to Trim Your Bunny’s Nails
If your rabbit has light-colored nails, trimming is fairly easy. You’ll be able to see the pink area inside the nail, called the quick, which contains the blood supply. Always trim above the quick.
For rabbits with dark nails, it can be harder to see where to cut, but it is still possible. A helpful trick is to use a small flashlight behind the nail, which can make the quick more visible.
Don’t Be Afraid to Learn
Many people feel nervous about trimming their bunny’s nails for fear of causing bleeding. However, it’s far more uncomfortable for a rabbit to live with overgrown nails. With a little practice, nail trimming becomes much easier and less stressful for both of you.
What If the Nail Bleeds?
If you accidentally trim too close and the nail bleeds:
How Often to Trim
Rabbit nails should generally be trimmed every 6–8 weeks, depending on how quickly they grow.
If you’re unsure or uncomfortable doing it yourself, your rabbit-savvy veterinarian or groomer can trim your bunny’s nails for you.
How to Trim Your Bunny’s Nails
If your rabbit has light-colored nails, trimming is fairly easy. You’ll be able to see the pink area inside the nail, called the quick, which contains the blood supply. Always trim above the quick.
For rabbits with dark nails, it can be harder to see where to cut, but it is still possible. A helpful trick is to use a small flashlight behind the nail, which can make the quick more visible.
Don’t Be Afraid to Learn
Many people feel nervous about trimming their bunny’s nails for fear of causing bleeding. However, it’s far more uncomfortable for a rabbit to live with overgrown nails. With a little practice, nail trimming becomes much easier and less stressful for both of you.
What If the Nail Bleeds?
If you accidentally trim too close and the nail bleeds:
- Stay calm - it’s a common mistake
- Apply gentle pressure with a cotton ball
- Or use a product like Kwik Stop to stop the bleeding quickly. If you don’t have styptic powder (such as Kwik Stop, commonly available at pet stores), you can use a Q-tip dipped in a small amount of cornstarch or flour. These can help absorb the blood and support clotting in minor nail bleeds.
How Often to Trim
Rabbit nails should generally be trimmed every 6–8 weeks, depending on how quickly they grow.
If you’re unsure or uncomfortable doing it yourself, your rabbit-savvy veterinarian or groomer can trim your bunny’s nails for you.
Incontinence
Rabbits with urinary tract infections, mobility issues, or who are older or disabled may have difficulty keeping urine away from their bodies. This can lead to wet, urine-soaked fur around the hindquarters, which can quickly irritate the skin.
Managing Mild Cases
For mild cases, you can help keep your bunny clean and comfortable by:
More Severe Cases
For rabbits with more advanced incontinence, protecting the skin from constant moisture is essential. One helpful option is:
These can help keep moisture away from the skin and prevent irritation. (For example, a size like Huggies Step 2 can fit an average 8-pound rabbit, though fit will vary.)
An even better option is to buy a piece of Sherpa fabric and cut it into 2×2 ft (or whatever size works for your space) squares to use as rugs under your bunny. Sherpa helps absorb urine and keeps moisture away from your rabbit’s skin.
For added protection, place pee pads underneath the Sherpa to protect your floors or carpet.
There are many companies that offer high-quality Sherpa and fleece options—one great place to check is Etsy, where you can often find bunny-safe, handmade options from knowledgeable sellers. we recommend also checking Lake Side Products for pee pads and vet fleece.
Keeping the area clean and dry is key to preventing painful skin irritation and infection. If incontinence persists, it’s important to consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian to address the underlying cause and ensure your bunny stays comfortable and healthy.
Managing Mild Cases
For mild cases, you can help keep your bunny clean and comfortable by:
- Carefully trimming or shaving the fur in areas that stay wet (rabbit fur holds moisture and dries very slowly)
- Gently rinsing the affected area daily
- Lightly applying cornstarch to help keep the area dry
- (Avoid talcum powder, as it is not safe)
More Severe Cases
For rabbits with more advanced incontinence, protecting the skin from constant moisture is essential. One helpful option is:
- Using disposable baby diapers, placed backwards so the tabs are on top
These can help keep moisture away from the skin and prevent irritation. (For example, a size like Huggies Step 2 can fit an average 8-pound rabbit, though fit will vary.)
An even better option is to buy a piece of Sherpa fabric and cut it into 2×2 ft (or whatever size works for your space) squares to use as rugs under your bunny. Sherpa helps absorb urine and keeps moisture away from your rabbit’s skin.
For added protection, place pee pads underneath the Sherpa to protect your floors or carpet.
There are many companies that offer high-quality Sherpa and fleece options—one great place to check is Etsy, where you can often find bunny-safe, handmade options from knowledgeable sellers. we recommend also checking Lake Side Products for pee pads and vet fleece.
Keeping the area clean and dry is key to preventing painful skin irritation and infection. If incontinence persists, it’s important to consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian to address the underlying cause and ensure your bunny stays comfortable and healthy.
Ear Care
Rabbits generally keep their ears quite clean, but occasionally ear wax buildup may need gentle attention.
You can carefully remove visible wax using a cotton swab, but take care not to push wax deeper into the ear canal. Only clean what you can easily see.
If needed, you may use a mild ear cleaner containing chlorhexidine (such as Nolvasan Otic) to help loosen debris—but always use gently and sparingly.
Ear Mites
Ear mites are a common issue in rabbits and can cause:
Treatment typically involves a topical medication prescribed or recommended by a veterinarian, such as ivermectin-based treatments.
Products like Revolution (selamectin) are also very effective at treating ear mites, along with other parasites.
Never attempt to scrape ear mites off your bunny’s ears or skin. This is very painful and can easily cause bleeding and further irritation.
With proper treatment, prescribed medications will safely eliminate the mites—there is no need to manually remove or scrape them.
When to See a Vet
If you notice:
It’s best to consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.
Gentle, minimal cleaning and regular observation are usually all that’s needed to keep your bunny’s ears healthy.
You can carefully remove visible wax using a cotton swab, but take care not to push wax deeper into the ear canal. Only clean what you can easily see.
If needed, you may use a mild ear cleaner containing chlorhexidine (such as Nolvasan Otic) to help loosen debris—but always use gently and sparingly.
Ear Mites
Ear mites are a common issue in rabbits and can cause:
- Crusty buildup inside the ears
- Scratching or head shaking
- Irritation or sensitivity
Treatment typically involves a topical medication prescribed or recommended by a veterinarian, such as ivermectin-based treatments.
Products like Revolution (selamectin) are also very effective at treating ear mites, along with other parasites.
Never attempt to scrape ear mites off your bunny’s ears or skin. This is very painful and can easily cause bleeding and further irritation.
With proper treatment, prescribed medications will safely eliminate the mites—there is no need to manually remove or scrape them.
When to See a Vet
If you notice:
- Thick crusting
- Strong odor
- Pain or sensitivity
- Excessive scratching
It’s best to consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.
Gentle, minimal cleaning and regular observation are usually all that’s needed to keep your bunny’s ears healthy.
Teeth Care
A rabbit’s teeth grow continuously throughout their life, so it’s important to regularly check that they are wearing down properly.
While grooming your rabbit or trimming their nails, take a moment to look at their teeth and make sure everything appears normal.
Normal Wear
Rabbits with properly aligned teeth will naturally keep them worn down through daily chewing and gnawing on hay, toys, and appropriate materials.
Malocclusion (Misaligned Teeth)
Some rabbits develop malocclusion, where the teeth do not line up correctly. When this happens, the teeth do not wear down properly and can become overgrown.
If left untreated, overgrown teeth can:
Treatment
Rabbits with malocclusion will need regular tooth trimming. This should be done:
Specialized tools are required, and care must be taken to avoid injury.
Regular checks and early intervention are key. Keeping your bunny’s teeth healthy ensures they can eat comfortably and stay happy and thriving.
If your bunny is experiencing issues with their front incisor teeth and you’re unsure what to do, feel free to reach out for guidance. I can help you understand what might be going on and what steps to take next.
Signs of Dental Problems (Check Regularly)
Dental issues in rabbits can develop quietly, so it’s important to watch for early warning signs:
When to Act
If you notice any of these signs, it’s important to contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian as soon as possible. Dental problems can progress quickly and become serious if left untreated.
Regular observation during grooming sessions is one of the best ways to catch dental issues early and keep your bunny healthy and comfortable.
While grooming your rabbit or trimming their nails, take a moment to look at their teeth and make sure everything appears normal.
Normal Wear
Rabbits with properly aligned teeth will naturally keep them worn down through daily chewing and gnawing on hay, toys, and appropriate materials.
Malocclusion (Misaligned Teeth)
Some rabbits develop malocclusion, where the teeth do not line up correctly. When this happens, the teeth do not wear down properly and can become overgrown.
If left untreated, overgrown teeth can:
- Make it difficult or impossible for the rabbit to eat
- Cause severe pain
- Grow into the cheeks or tongue
- Lead to serious health issues, including starvation
Treatment
Rabbits with malocclusion will need regular tooth trimming. This should be done:
- By a rabbit-savvy veterinarian, or
- With proper instruction from a veterinarian if you are taught to do it safely at home
Specialized tools are required, and care must be taken to avoid injury.
Regular checks and early intervention are key. Keeping your bunny’s teeth healthy ensures they can eat comfortably and stay happy and thriving.
If your bunny is experiencing issues with their front incisor teeth and you’re unsure what to do, feel free to reach out for guidance. I can help you understand what might be going on and what steps to take next.
Signs of Dental Problems (Check Regularly)
Dental issues in rabbits can develop quietly, so it’s important to watch for early warning signs:
- Decreased appetite or reluctance to eat
- Dropping food while eating
- Preferring soft foods and avoiding hay
- Weight loss
- Excessive drooling or wet chin (“slobbers”)
- Teeth grinding (a sign of pain, not contentment)
- Swelling along the jaw or face
- Runny eyes (can be linked to tooth root issues)
- Messy or unkempt fur from reduced grooming
- Changes in behavior (hiding, irritability, low energy)
When to Act
If you notice any of these signs, it’s important to contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian as soon as possible. Dental problems can progress quickly and become serious if left untreated.
Regular observation during grooming sessions is one of the best ways to catch dental issues early and keep your bunny healthy and comfortable.
Eye Care
Watery eyes or any discharge should always be evaluated by a rabbit-savvy veterinarian, as eye issues can be linked to infections, dental problems, or other underlying conditions.
While your rabbit is being treated, it’s important to keep the cheek area clean and dry. Constant moisture can cause the skin to become irritated, chafed, or lead to fur loss.
Keeping the Area Clean
Comfort for Irritated Skin
If the skin becomes sore or irritated, your veterinarian may recommend a prescription topical powder or medication to help soothe the area and promote healing.
Keeping the area clean, dry, and monitored will help prevent further irritation while your bunny receives proper care.
While your rabbit is being treated, it’s important to keep the cheek area clean and dry. Constant moisture can cause the skin to become irritated, chafed, or lead to fur loss.
Keeping the Area Clean
- Gently blot mild moisture with a clean tissue
- You can carefully use ophthalmic saline solution (such as contact lens saline) on the cheek to help loosen dried tear residue
- Warm or cooled chamomile tea applied with a cotton ball can be very soothing for your bunny’s eyes.
- Once the tears have crystallized, gently remove the debris with a fine flea comb
Comfort for Irritated Skin
If the skin becomes sore or irritated, your veterinarian may recommend a prescription topical powder or medication to help soothe the area and promote healing.
Keeping the area clean, dry, and monitored will help prevent further irritation while your bunny receives proper care.
Some of the information above is reproduced from the House Rabbit Society website, compiled with guidance from Dr. Carolynn Harvey.
